Wood Floors 101

The Three Categories

Solid hardwood is milled from a single piece of wood, typically 3/4″ thick, and can be refinished 4–6 times over its life. Engineered hardwood has a real-wood wear layer bonded to a plywood core; sandability depends entirely on veneer thickness. Laminate and luxury vinyl plank use photo-printed wear layers and cannot be refinished — only replaced.

Common Species

• White Oak — hardest of the common oaks, tight grain, accepts stain evenly. Most popular new-build choice.
• Red Oak — warmer pink-red undertone, standard for mid-century homes.
• Maple — very hard, tight grain, but takes stain unevenly. Best left natural.
• Walnut — softer, gorgeous dark tone, scratches more easily than oak.
• Hickory — extreme hardness and dramatic color variation.

Finish Types

Most modern wood floors are finished with water-based polyurethane (fast-drying, low-VOC, clear), oil-based polyurethane (slower, ambers over time, more durable), or a factory aluminum-oxide finish on prefinished planks. Older homes may have shellac, varnish, or wax finishes that require compatibility testing before any recoat.

Day-to-Day Care

Dust-mop or microfiber sweep regularly. Damp-mop with pH-neutral cleaners only — never Murphy’s Oil Soap, Pledge, Mop & Glo, or anything labeled "restore" or "shine." Wipe spills immediately. Area rugs in heavy traffic paths. Trim pet nails. That’s it.

When to Refinish vs. Recoat

If the wood itself is gouged, stained, or cupped — full sand-and-refinish. If only the topcoat is scratched, hazy, or traffic-worn — recoat. A recoat extends a floor’s life by 3–5 years at roughly one-third the cost.